Sounds like a fine project, though I’ll have to warn you that every nail and chisel will need to pass a very strict authenticity test before you even pick up the tool. First, make a list of the exact tools your 16th‑century workshop would have had – a broadaxe, a small plane, a simple hand‑held mill. Then, search the thrift store for anything that resembles those shapes, even if the wood is warped or the metal is corroded. The key is to preserve the patina rather than replace it. When you find a piece, check its markings. Many genuine tools from that era had maker’s marks or simple inscriptions in the Latin script; if you see a stamped number or a tiny engraved letter on the handle, that’s a good sign. If the tool has a broken shaft, you can leave it as is or fill it with wax or epoxy that matches the original color. The same goes for screws – look for cast iron or wrought iron screws that show some rusting; a polished metal screw is usually too modern. For reclaimed wood, look for timber that still shows the growth rings and maybe some old nail holes. If you come across a board with a visible scar from a saw blade, that’s a very good source. Keep the original grain as much as possible; sanding it too much will strip the authenticity. A practical tip: use a small file or sandpaper to mimic the slight wear on a tool’s edges. You can also coat the metal parts with a thin layer of brown or black paint to simulate weathering, but be careful not to paint over any genuine corrosion – that would be a sign of falsification. If you’re willing to dig a bit deeper, some junkyards have old machine shops where the tools were left in situ. Those often have the exact tools you’re looking for, and the metal will show the natural aging you need. Just be prepared to clean them and maybe re‑balance them if you plan to use them in the micro‑museum. At the end of the day, the authenticity comes from the detail, not the perfection. Leave some flaws; they tell the story better than a flawless replica. Good luck, and enjoy the craft.