Sounds like a solid idea. Keep your cuts tight—use a fine-tooth saw or a router with a fine bit, and always test each piece on a scrap before you cut the final. For the moving parts, add a small clearance gap, maybe a tenth of an inch, so the wood can slide or spin without binding. Use a light, low‑friction material like Teflon washers or a small amount of silicone grease where the fabric or wood meets the moving frame. To keep the sculpture stable, anchor the base with a weighted center—add a piece of dense hardwood or a small stone, and bolt it into the floor or a heavy block. If the gears need to rotate freely, use a low‑load ball bearing or a simple wooden bearing: cut a shallow groove, fill it with a few layers of waxed wood shavings, and clamp it in place. That way you get smooth motion but the structure won’t wobble. Test the whole thing at a slow pace first; you’ll catch any imbalances early and can tweak the supports before the final assembly.